A spouses and smugglers walkabout

Good Friday is a day of remembrance and reflection. But Mousehole, a picturesque fishing village on the south coast of Cornwall, England has an unusual tradition: a special Good Friday walk. In Mousehole, pronounced ‘Mowzel’, a historic Cornish fishing village located near the market town of Penzance, the tradition of walking had one purpose: to find a spouse. “The majority of the population walk to either St Michaels Mount, a nearby tidal island, or Lamorna, a tiny village and cove,” says Ashley Williams, a resident who joins the spouse-stroll every year. The walk to Lamorna offers astounding views—it joins the Coast Path at the top of a hill, passes through the woods and around the headland of Carn Du before following the cliffs to Lamorna Cove.

On reaching their destination, people enjoy a picnic, while a few head to the local pub, the Lamorna Wink, for a drink. The name of the pub refers to the village’s past links with the smuggling trade. During the 17th and 18th centuries, Cornwall was synonymous with smuggling—or free trade, as it was called back then. The location and geography of the villages in the ceremonial county positioned them perfectly for bringing in contraband like alcohol, tobacco, tea, lace, and more. “The wink had a role to play in Cornwall’s underground economy. It was an unlicensed beer shop where smuggled goods were often sold. The name comes from the fact that customers had to wink at the landlord if they wanted smuggled goods,” Williams says.

In the 19th century, Mousehole was “a little harbour with many fishing boats where every man and boy spends his life afloat”. Home to barely 500 people now, the atmospheric village has retained much of its old-world charm. The narrow streets and alleys, chock-a-block with small shops, artsy galleries, indie cafes, and cottages built from the local Lamorna granite, lead to the harbour where colourful boats nudge each other in the water.

Mousehole’s history includes an attack by Spaniards in July 1595 when the entire village was burnt to the ground. Only one house, Keigwin Manor, survived. The woman at the till at the picturesque Mousehole Gift Shop says the house goes back to the time of Queen Elizabeth I and was then owned by Squire Jenkyn Keigwin. “It was later converted into an inn, the Keigwin Arms, and had numerous landlords over centuries,” she says. The Keigwin Arms became a hotbed of smuggling, drunkenness and tales of ‘ladies of the night’.

The arrival of the railway to Penzance in 1859 contributed greatly to the popularity of Mousehole during the mid-Victorian period. The village was soon called the “most painted spot in the British Isles”, on account of its pristine countryside and rugged coastline. Artists, including Jack Pender, Joan Gilchrist, Stanhope Alexander Forbes, John Dyer and Joanne Short, trooped into the village to paint the magical quality of light.

The village may be small, but there’s plenty to do. Walk to Merry Maidens, a late neolithic stone circle that according to legends were maidens turned to stone for dancing on Sunday and breaking the rules of Sabbath. Or hire a boat and go birdwatching, keeping an eye out for seabirds, seals, basking sharks, and dolphins. Bird lovers and families can head to Mousehole Wild Bird Hospital, which was founded in 1928, and now cares for over 1,000 sick birds every year.

There are also plenty of ways to enjoy calm. The two small sandy beaches inside the harbour quays are accessible only at low tide while a long pebble beach running east is perfect for some solitude. In 1963, the small village began lighting up the harbour with a beautiful illuminated display. The tradition has continued and grown. “We now have more than 60 displays that use over 7,000 bulbs. They now draw people from across the UK,” Williams says.

End the day at Ship Inn, where Welsh poet Dylan Thomas honeymooned with his wife. Don’t miss Dylan’s Corner, which pays tribute to the poet, as you enjoy fresh seafood accompanied by a glass of the local tipple. As you step out, sated, it’s easy to see why Thomas called Mousehole “quite the loveliest village in England”.

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