Paris Fashion Week has once again left fashion enthusiasts captivated with its spring-summer 2024 womenswear collections, offering a glimpse into the future of style. As the grand finale of a bustling month of fashion weeks in London, New York, and Milan, Paris did not disappoint. From daring streetwear choices to subtle colour palettes, here are the highs and lows of this sartorial spectacle.
Streetwear Takes Daring Leap: Underwear As Outerwear
Prepare to embrace a bolder streetwear statement as we approach the spring of 2024. What was once a daring choice for celebrities like Hailey Bieber and Kendall Jenner has now become a widespread trend on the streets of Paris this week. Designers such as Stella McCartney introduced billowing silk tops paired with crystal-encrusted undies. Victoria Beckham presented outfits reminiscent of nightdresses, while Dries Van Noten showcased leopard-skin swimsuits beneath trench coats.
hailey bieber and kendall jenner serving legs *chef kiss* pic.twitter.com/6Ppi53HtXK
— n. (@miumock) September 25, 2023
Hot pants and parachute tops #StellaMcCartney #PFW pic.twitter.com/GNFjpHcyC9
— Vanessa Friedman (@VVFriedman) October 2, 2023
Victoria Beckham appears to have a new direction…or a new design team? #PFW pic.twitter.com/HAy2idrGeF
— Vanessa Friedman (@VVFriedman) September 29, 2023
dries van noten ss24 rtw pic.twitter.com/wNCtTVWVFF
— DIDU (@muglare) September 27, 2023
A Palette Of Muted Tones Makes A Bold Statement:
Many designers chose muted elegance for spring and summer, eschewing vibrant hues in favour of understated palettes. According to Grazia UK, fashion heavyweights such as Christian Dior, Saint Laurent, Victoria Beckham, and rising star Peter Do embraced the realm of muted, often monochromatic colours.
VICTORIA BECKHAM SPRING SUMMER 2024
Discover every look from the show >> https://t.co/TVRXc4avOm#VBSS24 pic.twitter.com/33QeNjAOdS
— Victoria Beckham (@victoriabeckham) October 2, 2023
Critics voiced concerns about the perceived lack of innovation, with seasoned fashion observer Cathy Horyn of New York Magazine’s The Cut questioning the absence of fresh creative ideas.
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Balmain’s Blossoming Revival: Dazzling Showcase Amidst Adversity
Balmain defied the prevailing colourless trend with a resplendent and vibrant show, a remarkable feat considering the recent dramatic robbery that saw numerous outfits vanish just ten days prior. The runway was awash with roses in various forms, from models seemingly enveloped by a crimson thicket to others adorned with golden-feathered accoutrements embellished with roses. Rose-printed tops, dresses, and mini-skirts, along with opulent glittering floral creations verging on haute couture extravagance, took center stage.
Roses are red… and handcrafted for Balmain Spring 2024. Confected in leather, latex, or even recycled plastic bottles, the flower’s multiple runway representations aims to build upon the house’s extraordinary couture heritage with a fresh, modern outlook. #BALMAINSS24 pic.twitter.com/8dazNpezre
— Balmain (@Balmain) October 3, 2023
Designer Olivier Rousteing, with a hint of irony, quipped on Instagram, “Florals for spring? Groundbreaking…”
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Balenciaga’s Unfiltered Creative Resurgence: Demna’s Return To Edgy Aesthetic
Balenciaga’s Demna, whose controversial ads referencing child abuse stirred controversy last year, returned to his rebellious roots this week. Following a low-key show earlier this year, he embraced the unconventional with surreal creations like oversized suits and dresses crafted from vintage tablecloths.
Demna also revealed, “March was very polished, and I realised that I don’t like it when it’s polished. I like it when it’s rough.” The show bore a personal touch, featuring Demna’s mother, husband, and staff members as models. “It was about me, it was about my story. I needed to do it… because I had a horrible year,” he confessed, as reported by AFP.
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Fashion Goes Green: A Dual Spotlight On Ethical Choices
Hermes was captivated by a picturesque stage adorned with wildflowers and tall grasses, meticulously recreated within the stables of the Republican Guard. However, animal rights advocate PETA registered its disapproval, briefly interrupting the show in objection to the use of crocodile skin, AFP reported.
(2) Hermés คอลเล็กชัน Spring/Summer 2024 ครีเอทีฟไดเรกเตอร์ฝั่งเสื้อผ้าผู้หญิง Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski ยกทุ่งหญ้ามาไว้ในโชว์คอลเล็กชันล่าสุด เพื่อนำเสนอเสื้อผ้าเรดี้ทูแวร์ที่เหมาะกับการออกไปปิกนิกในฤดูร้อน pic.twitter.com/JmZIRCddxQ
— THE STANDARD POP (@TheStandardPOP) October 1, 2023
In contrast, Stella McCartney transformed her show into a marketplace celebrating “cruelty-free and conscious material innovations”. Stalls championed alternatives such as vegan leather, organic cotton, and seaweed-based yarn. McCartney’s designs paid homage to her rock star parents, Paul and Linda McCartney, and their iconic Wings tour in the 1970s, featuring ruffled shirts and crystal-encrusted waistcoats.
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Fashion’s Bittersweet Goodbyes: Tale Of Two Departures
Naomi Campbell shone brilliantly on the catwalk in a shimmering silver dress at Alexander McQueen, marking the end of Sarah Burton’s tenure as creative director after over a decade at the helm. Business of Fashion hailed it as a “typically fearless final flourish from Burton,” leaving an illustrious legacy for her as-yet-unnamed successor.
Designer Gabriella Hearst bid adieu to Chloe, her sustainability-focused agenda having garnered acclaim but perhaps not the requisite sales to secure her position at the revered French fashion house. Her departure comes after less than three years of steering the brand towards a more eco-conscious future.
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The spring-summer 2024 collections at Paris Fashion Week beckon us to an exciting fashion frontier, offering a mix of audacious trends and restrained elegance. As we say goodbye to some iconic designers, the fashion industry looks forward to new perspectives and innovations that will shape the industry’s future.
